Use this example diagram if you have a typical, basic 4 wire system. Use the example drawing below if you have a 2 wire system or the thermostat is the advanced computerized type that communicates back and forth between the furnace typically found on heat pump systems. Do not use this method if your HVAC system utilizes a multi-speed blower.
All of the parts below are available through Randy. No air can be allowed to flow around it or out of the ductwork. Use adhesive backed foam tape used for insulating doors and windows to seal around the frame and foil tape to seal off the opening you make in the plenum heat for the heat exchanger. Make sure the fittings for the supply and return lines are easy to get to once the heat exchanger is installed.
You should be able to find a heat exchanger to fit most popular sizes of plenums. If you are unable to the ductwork must be modified to accept the heat exchanger. Wear proper protective gear. Measure the width of the heat exchanger Dimension A in next diagram. Measure the thickness of the heat exchanger Dimension C. Start by cutting a hole in the side of the ductwork the thickness of the heat exchanger Dimension C and the full length of the ductwork usually Dimension A. Metal edges are very sharp! Wear protective gloves and use caution! Slide the heat exchanger into the hole for a test fit.
Ideally the header and tubes F should stick out of the plenum. While test fitting try to determine how much tape is needed around the frame of the heat exchanger to seal and keep air from flowing around it. A different amount thickness may be needed on different sides.
Secure in place using pop rivets or self tapping screws. Slide the heat exchanger carefully into the plenum to check the fit again. Once proper fitting is verified, you can seal off the ends of the heat exchanger and the hole you made in the plenum with foil or duct tape. You can install a heat exchanger in a plenum that is smaller than the length of the heat exchanger as follows.
- Where to Install | Heatmaster SS Outdoor Wood Furnaces.
- INSTALLATION DRAWINGS.
- How to Install an Outdoor Furnace.
- thermostat hook up for outdoor furnace(white rogers).
- dating voor hoger opgeleiden gratis.
- why cant carbon dating be used for fossil fuels.
Make cuts at the top and bottom of the plenum, usually 4 inches long the width of the heat exchanger as shown below. You may need to do this on both sides of the ductwork depending on the heat exchanger size. Slide the heat exchanger through the front hole to the back hole so it protrudes out the front and back of the plenum the same amount.
They’re Built Tough!
Ideally the core of the heat exchanger will be entirely within the plenum. Crimp the sheet metal to the edge of the heat exchanger item G using channel-lock pliers. This not only forms a virtually airtight seal, but also supports the heat exchanger as well. The motors on most force air furnaces have three speeds to provide various rates of air movement.
Please consult a local furnace specialist if you want to change the airflow of an existing furnace system. The NCB boiler may be connected to an existing boiler system. A water-to-water plate heat exchanger is needed to transfer heat from the outdoor boiler to the indoor hydronic system so that the two systems remain isolated see next diagram. As shown in the above figure, the two systems are totally isolated from each other so that the existing hydronic system remains undisturbed and functions exactly as it did before.
Installation - Polar Furnace
All pumps and controls remain essentially the same on the existing system but you will need to keep the burner on the hydronic furnace from firing. This provides the means to solely heat the home with the outdoor boiler if the water on the incoming line is over F. If it ever falls below , the indoor burner will fire again to keep the home warm and also reverse heat the outdoor boiler to keep it from freezing. The electrical diagram on the next page shows a typical control setup for operating a 2 zone radiant system for a new installation that does not use an existing hydronic furnace.
Part numbers are noted on each item for ordering from Randy. Before filling, inspect the pump shaft by removing the large silver screw to expose the top of the shaft and turn back and forth with a screw driver to make sure the shaft was not broken during shipping. Broken shafts are not covered under warranty unless found and noted before outdoor wood stove installation and startup. Also read maintenance section in full.
Once all piping connections are complete, flush about 20 gallons of water into the float stack and drain, repeating until it comes out clean. Fill the boiler with a hose through the float stack or if you have installed a fill line, open the valve and allow it to fill, stopping once the float starts to rise. Use water that is softened and has low iron content if possible for maximum boiler and pump life. Do not start circulation pump until boiler is FULL and the impeller and bearings have been primed!
After filling, remove the top screw on the pump until a steady stream of water flows and all air has been purged. Being a wet-rotor unit, if the pump runs dry at all, it will seize up as the bearings rely on lubrication from the water. See maintenance section for full details on pump operation and care. During the first heating cycle the water might expand and overflow.
This is normal and will occur anytime too much water has been added.
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
Open the drain valve to keep the float indicator at the bottom of the rubber cap. Any higher than this and hot water may push the float out and also cause scalding water to spill out. You must over-fill when the boiler is shut off and not in use. After water has circulated for 1 hour, test Nitrite level to assure required 1,,ppm and add treatment if below this level. See warranty for full details. After priming and starting the circulation pump and bleeding the heat exchanger see next section , let the boiler heat up and run for 24 hours then top off the water if needed.
The ideal water level is at the beginning of a heating cycle for the level indicator to be at the bottom of the rubber cap. The water level will rise and fall during operation as water expands and contracts with temperature changes. Be sure to keep the boiler full of treated water at all times including through the summer as this will keep the boiler free from corrosion and when in use, from overheating causing circulation pump failure.
With the pump running prime and flush bearings first! Repeat the procedure four times or until you cannot hear air rushing through the line. Air is always an enemy in any hydronic heating system, but even more so in an open system. The location of the air eliminators in the heating system is critical in how effective, or hindering, they may be. A properly placed air vent should allow for quick and simple removal of the air upon initial commissioning of the system and for easy inspection or service at a later date.
Typically an air vent is located wherever the fluid in the system flows horizontally and then turns to go down. At that point use a tee in place of an elbow and install the air vent on the top of the tee. Should an air vent ever be installed on the intake side of a pump?
- dating while in graduate school.
- free dating links.
- the hook up glass shop.
- steps to take when dating.
- best free dating site without payment.
- INSTALLATION.
- starkville ms dating.
If the pump is located at the outdoor furnace then there should be no need for an air vent on the intake of the pump. The piping should be simply routed from the connection at the furnace down or horizontally into the pump. If the pump is in the building it should be positioned so that, if at all possible, there are no air entrapment points in the piping before the pump.
If this cannot be avoided, then an air vent may be installed at the air entrapment point on the intake side of the pump if the location of the vent is at least two feet lower than the water level in the outdoor furnace. If this vent is opened when the pump is on, it may draw air in through the vent and add to the air problems in your system.
When servicing more than one heating load in a system, the order you supply each demand is quite important.
About Our Outdoor Furnaces
When a heating system is designed it is important that this temperature drop be taken into account in order for each component in the system to meet its demand. The typical order is as follows: Typical design temperature required is F. Finned copper tube design. A radiator installed in the plenum of a forced air furnace or a fan unit with a radiator built in.
A floor heat system that is hung with clips or transfer plates to the underside of a floor, in a wall, or even a ceiling. In this method the piping radiates its heat through the air surrounding the piping and then into the room through the floor, wall, or ceiling. Aluminum heat transfer plates may also be used in this method to boost the performance in high heat loss areas.
A special stainless steel or titanium heat exchanger may be used to heat the pool or hot tub water. A piping system embedded in a concrete floor such as a basement, garage, or workshop. A floor covered with a topping pour of gyp-crete or concrete would also fall into this category. Typical design temperature required is 80 F.
Installing a Nature’s Comfort Outdoor Wood Furnace
A piping system designed to melt and evaporate snow and ice from outdoor areas such a sidewalks, driveways, or decks. This piping may be embedded in concrete or hung in staple up fashion depending on the application. Typical design temperature required is 40 F.
When designed properly, this enables the maximum amount of heat to be extracted from a minimal amount of flow from the outdoor furnace. Less piping, smaller piping, smaller pumps and lower heat loss. That translates into money saved in both initial set-up and long term operating costs. If we look at the last two items in the Order of Operations list above we see that the water temperature required for slab heating a basement, workshop, or snow melt area is significantly lower than what we generate from our outdoor furnace.
We need to cool that water down before we send it into the slab.